100% complete-wheat pie crust is a terrible strategy. Or is it?

Kandace Wysock

Big Very little Recipe has the smallest-probable ingredient listing and huge every little thing else: flavor, creative imagination, wow element. That means 5 components or less — not together with drinking water, salt, black pepper, and particular fat (like oil and butter), considering that we are guessing you have those people […]

Big Very little Recipe has the smallest-probable ingredient listing and huge every little thing else: flavor, creative imagination, wow element. That means 5 components or less — not together with drinking water, salt, black pepper, and particular fat (like oil and butter), considering that we are guessing you have those people included. Psst, did you hear we are coming out with a cookbook? We’re coming out with a cookbook!


Let us get this out of the way: 100%entire-wheat pie dough is a negative thought. You do not have to have to inform me, mainly because I am telling you. It is dense and challenging and unagreeable. Which is why sensible recipe developers choose a different route.

Stella Parks, a pie genius, uses 50% whole-wheat flour in her recipe on Severe Eats. The entire-wheat offers “flavor and tenderness,” which the all-objective flour backs up with “energy.” And Erin McDowell — a different genius! Food52’s resident baker! She wrote The Ebook on Pie! — uses even fewer complete-wheat flour (44%). And whole-wheat pastry flour at that, which has a decreased protein content and yields a softer dough.

As Erin explains in her reserve, “Though it is doable to make a dough 100% typical complete wheat flour, the dough needs significantly far more hydration, and I find the ensuing crust dense. Working with a blend of whole wheat pastry flour and all-function flour is the fantastic remedy.”

A number of years again, I entire-wheat-ified a bunch of baked merchandise and, while full-wheat cookies had been “even improved,” the entire-wheat pie crust was worse. Not well worth it, I claimed. Do 75% max, I claimed. But I was erroneous.

Turns out, I wasn’t asking plenty of concerns. Like, what is complete-wheat flour, anyway? And what the heck is pie dough? With a fresh point of view, 100% total-wheat pie dough not only becomes probable — but also a very superior concept.

As its title implies, entire-wheat flour features the complete wheat kernel (endosperm, bran, germ, and all). This means extra protein, a lot more fiber, extra taste — and more bulk to weigh down breads and pastries as they try to increase in the oven.

But just as there is certainly more than a single type of wheat — actually, there are countless numbers — you can find a lot more than just one kind of wheat flour. Dependent on where you are living and your supermarket, you may likely discover a few varieties: For me, in the Northeast, the default is labeled as “complete-wheat flour,” milled from challenging crimson wheat. You can find also white whole-wheat flour, milled from hard white wheat.

So no, white entire-wheat flour is not a combine of white and wheat flours. But funnily adequate, it acts just like that in baked merchandise. Imagine of this component as the compromise concerning the nourishing nuttiness of conventional total-wheat and the creamy fluffiness of all-objective. Aka, the best of both equally worlds.

This isn’t really to say you really should swap white entire-wheat flour into recipes willy-nilly. When I commenced doing work on this column, I tried using just that in an all-butter pie dough recipe, and I still ran into the identical hurdle identified by other bakers (superior taste, negative texture).

The well-liked resolution is to cut down the share of total-wheat to 50 or less, as Stella, Erin, and a lot of other bakers have confirmed will work perfectly. The other option is to leave the flour as it is, and rethink the other key ingredient in pie dough: fat. Apart from butter, pie dough recipes can use shortening or lard.

Or, much less frequently, cream cheese. This ingredient is critical in Jewish rugelach — a traditional, flaky-crumbly cookie my grandma taught me how to make all over the age when I even now nervous about monsters beneath the mattress. The ratio you are going to see over and above is effortless ample for a child to memorize: a person portion flour to 1 portion cream cheese to a person portion butter. Buzz them all in a meals processor, roll out a circle, deal with it in jam and nuts, lower out triangles, curl them into tiny crescents, enable your grandma pinch your butt.

When I labored as a baker at Scratch, Phoebe Lawless‘s pie store in North Carolina, 1 of the most well-known pies ditched a flaky butter crust in favor of a tender rugelach a single. Also, a person of Rose Levy Beranbaum’s go-to pie doughs hinges on cream cheese. As Sarah Jampel wrote about it, “the fat and milk solids in the product cheese inhibit gluten formation (and provide a taste that tends to make the crust tasty adequate to eat bare).”

Because rugelach would not need any drinking water — the product cheese has additional than more than enough humidity — it avoids the catch-22 of entire-wheat, exactly where you have to increase far more drinking water to entirely hydrate the flour, but then the excess drinking water yields a dense crust.

All you happen to be left with is a super flavorful, super tender, tremendous forgiving pie dough that just takes place to be manufactured with 100% whole-wheat. The only problem is: What recipe will you set it toward 1st?

https://www.youtube.com/observe?v=jNR6yzpR1Mw

Recipe: 100% Complete-Wheat Pie Crust

Prep time: 35 minutes
Can make: 1 one 9-inch pie crust

Substances:

  • 113 grams (1 cup) white full-wheat flour, if possible frozen
  • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 113 grams (4 ounces) product cheese, broken into parts
  • 113 grams (4 ounces/1 adhere) unsalted butter, cubed

Directions:

  1. Incorporate the flour and salt to a food processor and pulse just to merge. Incorporate the product cheese and pulse until eventually absolutely included, with no massive parts obvious. Increase the butter and keep on to pulse right up until the butter is fully incorporated and the combination is curdy, practically like cottage cheese, quickly keeping with each other when squeezed. Kind into a disk and tightly wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 times ahead of using. 
  2. On a evenly floured surface area, roll out the dough to a circle about 12 inches in diameter. At this issue, you can acquire any route you would like. 
  3. For a free of charge-form galette (my favored!), transfer the dough to a parchment-lined sheet pan, incorporate your filling to the centre, leaving a 1-inch or so border, and then fold over that border to type a crust. 
  4. For a par-baked crust, put into a 9-inch pie pan and crimp on the other hand you like. Prick the bottom and sides with a fork, line with parchment, and fill with pie weights (I use dried beans). Bake at 400°F for 15 to 20 minutes, right up until the crimped crust is starting up to brown. Take out from the oven, take away the parchment and pie weights, and bake for yet another 5 to 8 minutes to dry out the bottom. (If the crust puffs up at all or commences to shrink, you can prick it with a fork to depuff, or force up the shrunken sides with the side of a measuring cup.) 
  5. For a blind-baked crust, location into a 9-inch pie pan and crimp nonetheless you like. Prick with a fork, line with parchment, and fill with pie weights (I use dried beans). Bake at 400°F for 15 to 20 minutes, right until the crimped crust is starting up to brown. Eliminate from the oven, take away the parchment and pie weights, and bake for yet another 12 to 15 minutes to totally bake right until deeply golden brown. (If the crust puffs up at all or starts off to shrink, you can prick it with a fork to depuff, or press up the shrunken sides with the facet of a measuring cup.)
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